Surf, nature and passion

Posted by in Portugal, Surfing

Man, Im suffering from surf deprivation nowadays.. Whats a girl to do really, whilst awaiting for surf to arrive..? It feels like an eternity to wait for waves that according to the forecast seem so far away. Or actually, the opposite is the case now; I am waiting for the storm to die down so I can actually surf without sudden death.

It’s frustrating sometimes to have surf as a passion. It can not be scheduled that easy. Neptune is running the show here, and we can not do much about it, just accept and wait, like frustrated little fish on land..

Surf, nature and passion

Evening surf check
You can almost feel the tension rise in the whole city here when people dont get to surf. People stress more, swear more in traffic, and just go around themselves in circles anticipating that Mother Nature will send a few lines on the horizon..

It’s like being five years old and wait for Christmas !! It takes sooooooooooo long sometimes. Lucky for me I have two other great passions that I can exercise down here; dance and riding. If not I think I would be going a bit nuts in the winter. 

Sunset slash

Thre is something really special with the surf. Being so close to nature and the natural forces. Feeling the salt water in your face, the sun that warms, to hear the waves crashing around you while you and your friends paddle in silence but with one hundred percent focus in the lineup to be in position for the next set of waves coming.

The exciting thing is that you have no idea what’s coming. You only know that at some point King Neptune will send you all his emotions in the shape of waves. They may be tiny, twinkling delightful waves, or large, heavy, fast beasts where it comes down to either going all in or all out! I Love the thrill of it! I Love how ww have to react there and then, on instinct almost. I love how it clears your mind of everything and gets you focused on what is happening at the moment, and only that.
I hope everyone out there have found a passion in life, whether it’s training, music, your loved one, family, a job or whatever, but a situation where time and place goes to a halt, and where your head relaxes and gets emptied of all the stress, and where your fill your soul and feel pure joy and freedom 😀 I have… Surf, eat, sleap, repeat. Good weekend guys!

P.S: Would you like to try surfing? Then I would recommend you to check out Lapointcamps. They have surf courses for beginner – advanced and camps worldwide.

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