10 reasons why I love surfing

Posted by in Hawaii, Indonesia, Portugal, Spain, Surfing, USA Mainland

Hey guys!
There are so many good reasons to surf, but my top 10 reasons to surf has as much to do about training as it has being out in the wild! For whats better than exercising outside? Anyway, here’s 10 good reasons to surf, in random order (highlighted photo taken by photographer Christian Houge)

Canggu

10 reasons why I love to surf:

1. Surfing takes us into nature

Surfing is the best way to get out in nature! What could be better than sun, summer, beach and some “Man / Woman vs Nature” action? Surfing shows you the power of nature from another angle and shows you how to have fun in nature.

This reminds be why it is so important to take care of Mother Earth and all she has to offer: Surfing has made me much more environmentally friendly and concerned about conserving nature. We have to be come more consious, and when you see how much garbage ending up along the coastline you will be horrified.. It can destroy critical balance in the food chain and in the ocean. Take a look at this tillustration:

how long until its gone

2. Surfing is best form of meditation! It cleans your head and brings you back to to the moment

Need I say more? The focus that the surf at times requires is the closest I have come to a meditative state. Or perhaps more accurately; a hyper focused state where the head gets emptied of everything except what is needed right then and there to evaluate the situation and resolve it accordingly. LOVE IT!

Zen

3. Surfing prepare you for the unknown and gets you used to taking challenges as they come along

Once you’ve paddled out to the line up is no longer you who decide everything. Neptune takes over, and you’re just a visitor in his kingdom.  What ever Neptune decides will happen, whether you want to or not. You have to just go with it and make the best decisions so that both you and the others out there can be as safe as possible.

To me, a control freak by nature, this is an insane relief in many ways. Surf can not be scheduled,  you just have to react to it. Perhaps this is why it is so addictive …? LOVE!

Duck dive

4. Surfing intensifies emotions, from unrestrained frustration to pure joy and everything in between!

I promise you; you have not experienced frustration before you’ve spent two hours in the waves without getting a single wave. Especially if everyone else around you surf wave after wave. In return you tenfolds of  happyness ones you get a wave, and even better; if it turned out to be THE wave of the day, or of your life, you never know…

Surf causes delight, anger, fear, joy, frustration, love and all there is in between .. Try it!

Smileys

5. Surfing takes you around the world to amazing destinations

Surfing changed my travel plans. Since I started surfing almost 10 years ago, old travel plans went in the trash and new travel dreams occurred. Many of them I have already implemented; Mexico, Indo, Australia, Hawaii, USA, Morocco, Brazil, Portugal, Spain, France and more.

City life can wait until I retire, now I just wanna go to the ocean. My job in Lapoint has given me opportunities to travel and surf. If you dont know where you want to try surf next time then check out Lapoints destinations. You are guaranteed a journey that deadlines; Portugal, Morocco, Indo, Sri Lanka, Costa Rica, Stadt +++

Travels

6. Surfing gives you lots of new friends worldwide across age, gender and background

Since I started surfing I met so many interesting people; I have friends all over the world in all ages, of both sexes, with different religions, career, finances and status. No passion has opened my eyes more to others than the surf. I learned so much from people I have met in all my travels, and they all have given me wisdom and knowledge on how a life can be lived, no matter the background.. Surfing has definately made me more humble ..

7. Surfing is a complete workout: it makes you super strong, agile, fast and long lasting

I thought I almostwould die of exhaustion when I first started surfing, and I was in fairly good shape! But nothing prepared me for this …. I slept 14 hours every night for the first two weeks. And it took me too two weeks to catch my first wave completely by my self. Surfing is a unique form of exercise. It combines strength and explosiveness, interval training, flexibility, endurance and mental strength.

Core, back, shoulders and arms get an extra workout as well as lung capacity strengthened. When you eventually begin to catch waves, you will also engage more glutes, thighs and calves.

Hit the lip

8. Surfing teaches you to be calm even in stressful situations

Surfing has taught me aa really important lesson; it does not help to panic during stressful situations. It really just makes everything worse. You have to keep your cool, look at the facts and then look for possible solutions. Finally it is important to make a decision quickly and follow your plan without hesitation. This I have taken with me further in life, both at work, in love, in relations to the family and last, but not least; in training!

Keep Calm

9. Surfing is a sport you always learn from, and something you can enjoy your whole life

I have seen both 2 year olds and 70 year olds surf. I’ve seen disabled people surf, I have seen small and large people surf, and no one seems to let themselves get prevent by age, size or disability. My strongest memory was a 70 year old who was paralyzed from the neck down and still surfing Sunset (Oahus perhaps heaviest wave !!!!).

Lesson

How is that even possible you ask? Well; he was strapped onto the board and had 3 lifeguards with him as he went out, they pulled him out and then pushed him into the waves and brought him back from the beachfront. AND HE WAS PARALIZED!! HE HAD NO MOVEMENT EXCEPT FOR THE NECK!!! AND HE WAS OUT SURFING WITH THE WORLD’S LARGEST GRIN ON HIS FACE! ABSOLUTELY INSANE !! (…and I was there freaking out because the waves were so f######n big….) Ill surf until I die. Enough said.

10.Surfing shake you out of your everyday routine, and forces you to be playful and impulive

Belive it or not, but this is actually something of the biggest challenge for me. For me it’s hard to just put down what I doing and and go surf/play. Many people think I’m the world’s biggest hedonist, but the truth is that I really am not. I do not feel that I can go and surf and have fun BEFORE EVERYTHING is scratched off the “to do” list .. Because that would be very irresponsible right…? But Im trying to fight this, and getting better hehehee…

Live life, surfing

So in other words; its hard to prioritize surf sometimes. Because it is so insanely fun and satisfying, and it has become my “carrot”, my reward for having done everything I should do .. But; The “to do” list just keeps on getting longer and longer. So I think that sometimes we just need to relax more, put the “to do” list dowa, call a friend and go surf.. What do you think?

Lagre

Lagre

Lagre

Lagre

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